With my made-to-order shirts, customers can individually select the fabric. This isn't just about the look, but also about comfort, care properties, and the character of the fabric. Below, I present the main types of fabric I offer for my shirts: pinpoint, poplin, Oxford, fil-à-fil, seersucker, and twill.
Pinpoint – fine, dense and versatile
Pinpoint is a finer version of Oxford cloth. Its dense, even structure creates a smooth surface and a polished appearance. The fabric is durable yet pleasantly soft. I often use pinpoint for shirts that can be worn both in the office and casually.
➡️ Example: Made-to-order shirt made from pinpoint cotton
Characteristics:
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Smooth, fine texture
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Durable and easy to care for
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Ideal for business and smart casual
Poplin – the classic among shirt fabrics
Poplin (or broadcloth) is one of the most popular weaves for high-quality men's shirts. The fabric is lightweight, smooth, and breathable. Its fine, dense weave always gives poplin an elegant look – especially when combined with Italian fabrics from Lake Como, which I select for my collection.
➡️ Recommended: Sartoriali No. 8 – Extravagant poplin shirt
Characteristics:
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Smooth surface with a fine sheen
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Highly breathable
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Perfect for business and summer
Oxford – sporty with structure
Oxford fabric is slightly coarser than poplin, giving it a sportier look. It's created by weaving different colored yarns together, resulting in a subtly heathered appearance. Oxford shirts are durable, easy to care for, and comfortable to wear – ideal for casual everyday wear.
➡️ Discover: Made-to-Order Oxford Shirts
Characteristics:
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Textured surface
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Soft to the touch, easy to care for
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Casual yet elegant for leisure and office
Fil-à-fil – subtle melange effect
Fil-à-fil means "thread by thread"—a weaving technique in which light and dark yarns are used alternately. The result is a subtle melange effect that appears solid from a distance but reveals depth up close. I particularly like using fil-à-fil for shirts that combine classic elegance with a modern twist.
➡️ See also: High-quality made-to-order shirts made of fil-à-fil
Characteristics:
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subtle color gradient
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airy and light
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Ideal for year-round wear
Seersucker – airy and easy to care for
Seersucker is the ideal fabric for warm days. Its slightly crinkled surface means it only partially lies against the skin, allowing air to circulate. This makes seersucker particularly comfortable in summer. It's also virtually wrinkle-free – perfect for travel or leisure.
➡️ Recommendation: Summer shirts made of seersucker
Characteristics:
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Cooling and breathable
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Minimal maintenance required
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Ideal for summer and travel
Twill – dense, soft and elegant
Twill is recognizable by its fine, diagonal weave. This gives the fabric depth and a subtle sheen. Twill is more densely woven, slightly elastic, and drapes beautifully. I like to use it for shirts that need a bit more structure and volume – ideal for formal outfits or cooler days.
➡️ Example: Twill shirt made of Italian cotton
Characteristics:
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Soft feel, elegant shine
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Durable and opaque
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Ideal for business and evening occasions
Conclusion – the fabric determines the character of a shirt.
The choice of fabric is crucial for a made-to-order shirt. Each fabric has its own properties and uses. For a light summer shirt, seersucker or poplin are good choices. Oxford and pinpoint are suitable for everyday wear, while twill and fil-à-fil have a particularly elegant look.
I place great importance on using exclusively fabrics from Italian production – preferably from leftover stock and overproduction, in order to manufacture sustainably.
Each shirt is individually made to order in Naples – with traditional craftsmanship and precise fit.
➡️ Learn more about my made-to-order program for men's shirts .
